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Selkirk Waterfront’s culinary gem: Glo shines with wonderful food and views

Allan Reid’s monthly column, Voracious explores restaurants throughout Victoria

The Selkirk Waterfront is a rather insular, somewhat circular neighbourhood that juts out into the Selkirk Waterway at the end of Jutland Road. It is a district of apartment-style residences and green spaces coexisting with upscale office buildings that attract professionals and technology ventures. I recall the odd feeling of incongruity the first time I entered this oasis of modern urbanity injected into mostly light industrial workshops and warehouses. That first venture of mine was to check out the hot new restaurant of the time: Glo.

Glo, like its neighbourhood, is set in the round. A spacious dining room encircles a round central bar and is contained within a long arch of tabletop-to-ceiling glass that offers views of the calm Selkirk waters. Kayaks glide before the colourful residences of the railyard development on the opposite VicWest shore and to the south, a neatly stacked mountain of crushed cars recall the industry that formerly dominated Victoria’s inner waterfront.

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My husband and I arrived at dinner time without reservations, which earned us a 30-minute wait for a table. Instead, we opted to sit at the bar, where full menu service was immediately available. Honestly, I love sitting at a bar, especially on such comfortable arm-stools. First, there is the built-in entertainment of bartenders busily crafting concoctions. Second, there will certainly be conversation with the bartender and often friendly folks sitting on either side. This evening it was Jeff and Donna, and our chats ranged from occupations to naval matters, to relationships and our mutual love of living in such a beautiful city.

The menu offers salads, flatbreads and burgers, pasta and bowls, and full-on entrées featuring steak, ribs, chicken, and salmon. Donna and I were both drawn to the Buddha Bowl ($23), which features snap peas, broad coins of carrot sliced paper-thin, crimini mushrooms, broccoli, and ribbons of bell peppers all sautéed. There was also pickled purple cabbage, a generous dollop of a mildly spicy yogurt and a spray of pea shoots on top. It was dressed with sesame-ginger oil and served over my choice of coconut rice or starch-free Farkay noodles. I opted for the rice with prawns as my protein, whereas Donna went for the crispy beef. This colourful medley came in a wide round black bowl, elegant on the black granite bar. The mild spice in the yogurt and the ginger in the sauce imparted a welcome liveliness to the flavour profile.

I paired my meal with a Toasted Walnut Old Fashioned ($13), which consists of Bulleit Bourbon, walnut liqueur, spiced brown-sugar syrup, angostura bitters, a “burnt” slice of orange, and a charred cinnamon stick. I was hit by the intensely smokey nose, but the drink was honey-esque on the tongue, its sweetness undercut by the darker tones of the bitters and burnt orange. It was a good choice, perfectly complementing my Buddha Bowl.

Dennis and I finished off sharing a Chocolate Coconut Torte ($10). This multi-layer cake features a rich, thin, soft chocolate coating served with whipped cream, the plate with Etch-a-Sketch like swirls of chocolate sauce and decorated with bold burgundy pansy blossoms. It was the perfect finish to a wonderful meal. Glo has clearly not lost its lustre.

Glo Restaurant and Lounge | 104-2940 Jutland Road, Victoria

250 385 5643 |