Fishhook lands strong on flavour

Monday Magazine's Allan Reid reviews Fishhook on Fort Street

Squint, and you will find this small dark restaurant with its small round sign squeezed behind the much larger and more flashy Starbuck’s on the corner of Fort and Blanchard. It may lack presence, but it makes up for it in attitude. It is attitude that has taken root in Victoria in recent years, owing to a trend toward small restaurants that are local to their core, eco-wise, and that throw everything traditional into the dumpster out back to put forward menus filled with unique, refreshing combinations of familiar and exotic flavours. The sadly departed Lady Marmalade was one, Jam is another, as is Olo, and more recently, Fishhook.

Fishhook lacks presence, I have said: it also lacks parking. Street parking is available but available spots were not plentiful on the day I visited. This may be an effect of having been Sunday, when downtown parking is free. Still, I was able to find a spot a block or so away. On the street, Fishhook offers a few small metal tables and chairs. Be careful not to walk into the Chorizo restaurant next door (which I may review on another day). Inside a selection of tables, counters, chairs and benches congregate before an open kitchen. It’s not the prettiest kitchen. Space is precious. One orders and pays at a till almost engulfed by the encroaching kitchen—the menu is on blackboards to your left. Once you have ordered, find a seat. Your fare will be delivered. My dining partners and I arrived at about noon and had no trouble finding a table. When we departed a bit after 12:30 our un-bussed table was snatched up almost before we stood up, and there was a good line of people waiting to place their orders

Fishhook describes its menu as “Pescatarian Indo-French Inspired.” Warning: One may need Google in hand while reviewing the menu. Read the above claim as “serving fish with Indian spices and French flair.” Beef, pork and chicken are not on the menu, so not everyone will love Fishhook, but that’s okay. Rather than cater to all tastes poorly, Fishhook caters to a few tastes exceptionally. One of my friends realized immediately that there was absolutely nothing on the menu that interested him. Even the Devilled Egg Tartine (Google? Open-faced sandwich), contained smoked lox and harissa (Google? Indian chilli paste). Happily for him, the staff at Fishhook were eager to accommodate and, just for him, reduced their devilled egg sandwich to slices of hard boiled eggs layered on a long crust of bread and sprinkled with diced onion and pepper. My friend was very pleased.

I am more adventurous. I ordered the Pondicherry. This is described as “Mixed wild seafood koftas, tamarind coconut, chana masala, golden basmati.” Excuse me while I dig out Google again. Koftas are hand-formed meatballs made of fish. In this case mixed fish. Judging by the other menu items, I suspect salmon, tuna, and rock-cod. The dish included two koftas of good size sitting atop the rice and chana masala sauce. Chana (pronounced sha’ na) indicates that the masala (curried spice sauce) features chickpeas. The spiciness of the koftas and chana masala was tempered by a sweet thin pinkish paste that, by process of elimination, and taste, turned out to be the tamarind coconut. The combination of sweet and spicy is classic, and for very good reason. This is a dish to enliven anyone’s palate. Best, the various components, while resting atop one another, were not incorporated, leaving it up to me to taste my way through the bowl and to mix the flavours to suit my own adventurous soul.

There is probably nothing better than a good beer to wash down Indian food, and Fishhook carries a good selection of local craft brews from Hoyne, Driftwood and Phillips. In addition, they carry Merridale cider and BC wines. Oddly, coffee is not available. Another tradition tossed, I guess. Frankly, I didn’t miss it.

 

Fishhook805 Fort Street, Victoria250-477-0470www.fishhookvic.cominfo@fishhookvic.com

 

 

Just Posted

Pet-A-Palooza a good reason to ‘pawse’ this weekend in Victoria

Puppies, goats, wiener dog races and more on the grounds of St. Ann’s Academy Aug. 18-19

UVic art display showcases craft of bookmaking

Art of the Book 2018 is in the Audain Gallery at UVic from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. starting Aug. 11

Celebrate local food with Feast of Fields in North Saanich

21st Feast of Fields on Vancouver Island is at Kildara Farms on Aug. 26 from 1 to 4 p.m.

RIFFLANDIA: Local artists thrive under festival model

Bands like Current Swell, one of the 2018 headliners, made their mark at RAP

Baseball’s HarbourCats wind up WCL season with loss to Pickles

Victoria needed a win to make the league playoffs, now looks ahead to 2019

Updated: ‘Queen of Soul’ Aretha Franklin has died

Publicist Gwendolyn Quinn reports Franklin passed Thursday at 9:50 a.m. at her home in Detroit

REVIEW: Ever wanted to be young again? Theatre Skam’s Concord Floral will make you think again

Strong acting in an interesting theatre space, writes Sheila Martindale

Brad Pitt says he has given Jolie Pitt millions since split

Actor Brad Pitt denies Angelina Jolie Pitt’s claim that he has paid no meaningful child support.

WINE LOVERS UNITE: Victoria festival offers numerous tasting options

Parkside Hotel and Spa hosting Victoria International Wine Festival

Farquhar Auditorium updates image for 40th season

The Farquhar at UVic ushers in new season Sept. 22

THEATRE SKAM: Young cast brings Concord Floral to life in vacant downtown retail space

Former office supply store a unique venue for telling mysterious tale of youth with secrets

Schedule released for world junior hockey championship in B.C.

Vancouver and Victoria ready to host, as Canada conducts training camp in Kamloops

Five things to do this B.C. Day long weekend

Check out these great community events in Greater Victoria

5 things to do in Greater Victoria this weekend

Check out dragon Boats, artists, football and more

Most Read