Sept. 11, 2021: Esquimalt lost its last pub.
It was a horrible day for Esquimaltonions: the day the Gorge Pointe Pub, near the entrance to Esquimalt’s Gorge Park, closed its doors. Esquimalt’s other pub, the historic and famous Tudor House, anchor of the historic chain of mile pubs: 4 mile, 8 mile, 17mile, burned to the ground back in July of 2013. In its place stands Tudor House Liquor, with plenty of land out back for a promised new pub that hasn’t happened. These terrible losses left Esquimaltonions thirsting for someplace new to kick back with friends while enjoying quality comfort food and drinks.
So Esquimalt hasn’t been quite as dry as I’ve made it sound. There has been Driftwood Brewery. Driftwood relocated from behind Hoyne Brewery (Bridge Street at Hillside) to a much more spacious warehouse location on Esquimalt’s rather industrial Viewfield Road in January 2021. Yes it’s that same building that the CRD had purchased for far too much, intending to use the property as part of the then proposed new water treatment system. By November 2021 the brewery boasted a brand new spacious tasting room with a striking west-coast oceanographic interior that simply must be seen. Add a large wooden patio, Dumpling Drop menu and Driftwood’s impressive selection of local craft beer and, effectively, it’s a pub in all but designation.
July 6, 2024. Saxe Pointe Public House, located in the heart of downtown Esquimalt just steps from the Township Hall, offers a more classic English-style flavour of dark wood and green tufted leather banquettes. On tap are a modest range of local and import brews, including several non-alcoholic options. Other labels are available by can. In addition there is a selection of mostly import wines and a bevy of cocktails and mocktails. A diverse menu offers small plates for sharing, a trio of inviting salads, a selection of handhelds and larger plates for more formal dining or for bigger appetites.
July 6 is a lovely day, on the verge of hot, so should I sit inside in the air conditioned shade, or out under the colourful Sol Beer umbrellas? I choose outside, on a patio carved out of Esquimalt’s new plaza, surrounded by wood-clad planters. I order an 18oz (American-sized) pint of Phillips Tiger Shark ($7.75) and the Grilled Cheese ($19.50). There are many much more exciting sounding options on the menu. I could have a Pork Belly Cubano ($24), or a Beef Bourguignon Cottage Pie ($26), a Fattoush Salad Bowl ($25) or maybe Braised Beef Short Rib Nachos ($25), but my grilled cheese promises “Swiss, cheddar, provolone, feta, mornay sauce, tomato & pistou.” This is in a whole other category of grilled cheese.
It arrives served on sliced artisan sourdough and accompanied with fries and salad. And this is an impressive salad: lettuce, cucumber, cherry tomatoes, dried cranberries, pumpkin seeds, slivers of pink pickled radish, crumbled egg, feta, chickpeas and shredded carrots in a vinaigrette so light it seems an illusion.
The fries are perfect: cut, not pressed, crisp outside, soft inside, and served with a pot of ketchup. And the sandwich is the chewiest, gooiest grilled cheese I’ve ever encountered. Four layers of cheese slipping and sliding against each other, the pistou (similar to pesto but without the pine nuts) adding a welcome herbal not to cut and compliment the richness of all that cheese.
The Phillips Tiger Shark, a hazy pale ale light on both hops and malt, but with plenty of citrus, is the perfect choice to wash it all down, and wonderfully refreshing on a hot summer day. Esquimalt welcomes you.
Saxe Pointe Public House: 250-590-5519, saxepointpub.com
