Though long closed, the name Sooke Harbour House continues to define quality in hospitality for most South Islanders.
Long before its closing in 2015, it had become legend. Those who experienced it may feel its loss like a hole in the soul of South Island living. For those who missed it, there can only be a vain longing unfulfilled.
Frederique and Sinclair Philip’s version of the Sooke Harbour House (1979-2012) was not the first – the Sooke Harbour Camp, with cottages and a teahouse, opened in the 1920s. But the Philips’ focus on Slow Food – high quality, freshly prepared, with courses spaced to provide plenty of time between for relaxing, digesting and conversing with friends – firmly established Sooke Harbour House on the global culinary scene, winning accolades and acclaim from across the country and around the world.
And then it all fell apart in a calamitous series of events that included a years-long string of legal battles and the shocking shuttering of the establishment. And so it stood there, a taunting reminder, resplendent but empty, still overlooking Whiffin Spit and the entrance to the Sooke Basin. It stood there like an uncertain promise anxiously anticipated, sadly mourned. Now, nine years after it closed, our most fervent wish has been granted: Sooke Harbour House is coming back, just not all at once.
The day I visit is the first day that guests reoccupy the hotel’s rooms. For the first month or so, guests will take their breakfasts in their rooms, while the Sunroom is made ready. Likewise, the grand dining room remains closed, but is expected to reopen soon. Until then, the Copper Room – the hotel bar – serves as the dining room. Reservations are required. I arrive with friends for a 7 p.m. seating and we are assigned to Emmas’s table. She is perfection personified.
Wednesday offers half-priced wine by the bottle, so we begin with a B.C. Similkameen Valley Syrah from Clos de Soleil, Winemaker’s Series, 2021 ($45. The cost of two glasses), and we order our starters. I opt for the Smoked Sablefish Brandade Croquettes ($20/four pieces). A buttery whitefish with a soft texture, sablefish (aka Black Cod) is a West Coast favourite. It's soaked in a purée of olive oil and milk, then rolled in mashed potato, breaded and fried golden. A garlic scape aioli is drizzled atop and decorated with a nasturtium petal and miner’s lettuce then plated on a live-edge wood round.
For my main I choose the Braised Metchosin Lamb Cavatelli ($46). Cavatelli – small, elongated pasta shells – are served over a pesto base and drenched in the lamb braising fluid. The lamb itself is plentiful and melts in the mouth. The dish is topped with shredded cheese. I know many people dislike lamb, but based in this dish, I can’t understand how that’s possible. This is umami-rich, ultra-satisfying comfort food.
I finish with the Apricot, Orange and Sea Buckthorn Cheesecake ($16). This is a striking orange-and-cream-coloured dessert – even more striking served at the centre of a charcoal-coloured plate embossed with a pattern of leafy veins and pores. A puck of the creamiest cream cheese sits on a round graham wafer. It is half-topped with the diced fruit. The other half is topped with a piping of Chantilly cream and dotted with sea buckthorn berries and marigold petals.
Hours have passed but with no regret, and there’s still the long drive home. We’ve happily added a small fortune to IAG Enterprise’s bank account (the new owners) and thankfully, for it is oh-so good to have the Sooke Harbour House back and in good hands again.
Sooke Harbour House
778-425-9015