On-street parking on Quebec Street provides easy access to the back entrance of the Hotel Grand Pacific. Dennis and I to cut through the hotel lobby, almost to out the front door, where a short flight of stairs, or ramp, brought us to the Fathom host’s station.
While waiting, I look around, noticing diners seated outside on a cold and rainy night. On closer inspection, the Fathom terrace offers diners the comfort of enclosed glass walls and an overhead pergola warmed with heaters. The effect is inviting and romantic, but alas, no tables are available on the terrace or in the dining room.
Even the lounge seems questionable. One table, for two, squeezed in a back corner, remains. Seating throughout is upscale casual with clusters of plush armchairs interspersed with low, round casual tables of charcoal marble striated with white. Orange leather bar stools, each with a hefty ribbon of leather to support one’s back, line a bar attended by as many as four bartenders in butcher-style aprons, all of whom also serve tables.
In the corner opposite our table, the Gordon Clements Trio is just setting up, out of sight behind wall that separates our table from the stage area.
I have a great view of the room, which features a pallet of rich and light tones: dark chocolate trim accenting dark blue walls and columns. One bright blue wall features artwork, while another is papered in swirling blue. White ceilings keep the room from feeling oppressive, but these too are broken up with inset coffered trays of dark chocolate with white crosshatch beams. The effect is warm and rich, relaxed and comfortable.
Terrace, dining room or lounge, the menu is the same with the exception of a short Winter on the Terrace (only) offering of Cheese or Chocolate Fondue and a Sea-Cuterie Board. Otherwise, the dinner menu is divided between Starters, Plates and Sweets. Dennis and I both opt to bypass the starters.
Dennis chooses the Bison Bavette ($46). This 10-ounce bison steak is prepared to a perfect medium rare and then served sliced to reveal the contrast of dark exterior to vivid pink interior. The slices are tossed on a dark chocolate-coloured plate among roasted fingerling potatoes, mushrooms, fermented radish, several creamy dots of cauliflower puree and a sprinkle of micro greens. Jus is served on the side, as requested, in a deep brown single-serving pitcher. Bison is leaner than beef, which accounts for it being a bit chewier. The flavour is not at all gamey and the char was perfect.
I order the Salmon ($39). A generous filet, perfectly prepared and topped with an herb salad, sits perched upon an island of fingerling potatoes and green beans rising from a tomato and fennel bisque, along with three plump mussels, baby bokchoy and zesty fermented radishes, all served in a rustic bowl-plate with a watery edge.
Throughout the evening, the Gordon Clements Trio, with Gordon on alto sax and bass clarinet, cement the sophisticated cabaret ambience of the evening with a playlist that includes compositions by Charles Mingus, Duke Ellington and Cole Porter among others, each song roundly applauded. A fine compliment to Fathom’s superior cuisine.
Fathom
Grand Pacific Hotel, 463 Bellville St., Victoria
250-380-4458; fathomvictoria.com
